Sleeper raised beds and sleeper retaining walls

Railway sleepers are one of the most popular ways to add structure to a garden. Stacked as raised beds, they give planting a crisp edge and bring flowers or vegetables up to a comfortable height. Built as a low sleeper retaining wall, they can hold back soil on a sloping plot and turn an awkward bank into a usable level.

Gardenscape has built landscape structures since 2007, and sleeper work often forms part of a wider garden layout. If you are still deciding between materials, our comparison of sleeper and brick raised beds sets out the differences. This page covers how sleeper beds and walls are planned and built.

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Choosing sleepers

Sleepers come in hardwood, softwood and, occasionally, reclaimed timber. New softwood sleepers are usually pressure treated and are the most common choice for raised beds. Hardwood such as oak is heavier and lasts longer but costs more and weathers to a silvery grey. Reclaimed railway sleepers may have been treated with substances that are not suitable near food crops, so new timber is the safer choice for vegetable beds.

Sizes vary, so the dimensions of the sleeper decide how many courses are needed to reach a given height. Lining the inside of a bed with a permeable membrane keeps soil off the timber and can help it last.

Building a sleeper raised bed

A raised bed needs a level, firm footing so it stays square. The ground is cleared and levelled, and the first course is set on compacted ground or a shallow base. Each course is staggered at the corners like brickwork and fixed with long timber screws or brackets so the joints lock together. Taller beds may need internal posts to stop the sides bowing outwards once the soil is in.

Height is worth thinking about early. Two or three courses suit most borders, while a taller bed makes gardening easier for anyone who finds bending difficult. Remember that a deeper bed holds much more soil, which affects both cost and the pressure on the sides.

Sleeper retaining walls

A sleeper retaining wall holds back soil rather than simply edging a bed, so it is under far more load. Sleepers are usually set vertically into the ground with concrete, or laid horizontally against posts concreted in at intervals. Drainage behind the wall matters, because wet soil pushes harder than dry soil. A free-draining backfill and a way for water to escape help prevent the wall leaning over time.

Sleepers suit modest changes in level. For higher or heavily loaded walls, a masonry or block retaining wall is often more suitable, and our retaining walls page covers those options.

What affects the cost

The type and number of sleepers, the height and length of the beds or wall, how much soil needs moving or bringing in, any concrete footings and access to the garden all affect the price. We look at the layout and levels on a free site visit and then give one fixed written quote.

Your questions answered

Are railway sleepers safe for vegetable beds?

New pressure-treated or untreated timber sleepers are generally preferred for food growing. Reclaimed railway sleepers may have been treated with substances that are not suitable near edible crops.

How high can a sleeper raised bed be?

Two or three courses suit most gardens. Taller beds are possible but usually need internal posts so the sides do not bow under the weight of soil.

Can sleepers be used as a retaining wall?

Yes, for modest changes in level. They are set vertically in concrete or laid against concreted posts, with drainage behind. Higher walls usually need masonry or block.

What affects the cost of sleeper beds?

The type and number of sleepers, the size and height of the beds, soil to move or bring in, footings and access. We price it after a free site visit with one fixed written quote.