Deciding whether to seal a block paved driveway
Sealing Block Paving: Pros, Cons and When to Skip It
Sealing block paving is optional, not essential. A good sealer helps lock the jointing sand in place, makes oil and dirt easier to clean off and can deepen the colour for a while. It does not repair sunken or rocking blocks, it wears off and needs reapplying, and a poor application can leave the drive patchy or slippery.
Our view as block paving installers is simple: sort the structure and joints first, then seal only if the benefits suit how you use the drive. Below is the honest case for and against.

The case for sealing
Joint stabilisation is the most useful benefit. Some sealers bind the top of the kiln dried jointing sand, so it is less easily washed or swept out and weeds find it harder to establish. That matters most on drives that are washed often.
Stain resistance is the second. Oil drips, spilt drinks and tyre marks sit on a sealed surface for longer before soaking in, so they are easier to clean. Colour enhancement is the third, with some products giving a darker, richer or slightly glossy look.
The case against
Sealer is a coating, so it wears, particularly in the wheel tracks. Expect to reapply every few years to keep the effect even. A drive that has been sealed once and left can look patchier than one that was never sealed at all.
Application has to be right. Sealing a drive that is not fully dry can trap moisture and cause a white bloom. A heavy coat of a gloss product can make the surface slippery when wet. And sealing seals in whatever is there, so dirt, efflorescence or weeds left in the joints are locked under the coat.
Most importantly, sealing does nothing for the structure. Sunken areas, rocking blocks and spreading edges are base or edge restraint failures and need lifting and relaying.
When it is worth doing
After a new block paved drive has had time to settle and any efflorescence has faded. After a thorough clean and re-sand where the joints are full and the blocks are sound. On drives where oil and stains are a regular issue. Or where you simply want the colour lifted and are happy to maintain it.
When to skip it
If the drive has sunken or loose areas, repair first; sealing a failing drive wastes the money. If you do not want the upkeep of reapplying, leaving the blocks unsealed and brushing fresh kiln dried sand into the joints when needed is a perfectly good approach. And if white marks are still coming through, wait, because sealing over efflorescence locks it in.
Getting the order right
Clean, repair, re-sand, let it dry fully, then seal. When we pressure wash block paving we re-sand the joints afterwards as standard, which on its own restores much of what people hope sealing will achieve. All our work carries our ten year guarantee.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to seal block paving?
No. Sealing is optional. It helps with joint sand, stains and colour, but a well laid, well jointed drive performs perfectly well unsealed.
Does sealing stop weeds in block paving?
It can reduce them by binding the top of the jointing sand, but it does not stop them entirely, and it will not help if the joints are already empty.
How often does block paving need resealing?
Sealer wears, especially in the wheel tracks, so expect to reapply every few years to keep an even finish.
Can sealing fix sunken block paving?
No. Sinking is a base or edge problem. The affected area has to be lifted, the base corrected and the blocks relaid.
Should I seal a brand new block paved drive?
Give it time first. Let any efflorescence fade and the joints settle, then decide whether sealing suits how you use the drive.
Related reading
Block paving looking tired?
We will tell you whether it needs a clean, a re-sand, a repair or nothing at all.