Block paving cost per m2 explained

A typical rate covers breaking out the old surface, excavating to the right depth, laying and compacting a sub-base, screeding the bedding layer, laying and cutting the blocks, and finishing with kiln dried sand and a final compaction. Each stage depends on the one before it.

Spoil removal is often underestimated. An old concrete or tarmac drive produces a lot of waste, and skips or grab lorries need room to park. Ask whether disposal is in the rate or listed separately.

Small drives often cost more per square metre than large ones, because setting up, edging and cutting are spread over less area. Curves, steps, manhole covers and changes in level all add cutting time.

Block choice matters too. Standard concrete blocks, tumbled finishes, larger formats and permeable blocks are priced differently, and laying patterns such as herringbone involve more cuts at the edges. Herringbone is commonly chosen for driveways because the interlock resists vehicle movement well.

Edge restraints stop blocks creeping outwards under car wheels. Kerbs set in concrete are a real cost line and should never be left out. Surface water also has to go somewhere: falls towards a channel drain, a soakaway or a permeable build-up are planned before laying.

On a front garden, drainage can decide whether planning permission is needed. If new parking also needs a dropped kerb, that is applied for through the council, separately from the paving. Our guide to driveway planning permission explains both points.

Put quotes side by side and check the same headings: depth of dig, sub-base material and thickness, block type, pattern, edging, drainage, disposal and making good around doorsteps and boundaries. A gap in one quote is usually a cost that reappears later.

We give one fixed written quote after the visit, so the scope is clear before work starts. Photographs of your drive and any problem areas help us prepare.

A well-built drive spreads the load evenly and resists the dips and loose blocks that appear when the base is too thin. Because individual blocks can be lifted and relaid, local repairs are possible without replacing the whole surface.

Sweeping, topping up joint sand and dealing with weeds early keep it looking right. Our maintenance guide covers the routine, and our comparison with resin explains when another surface may suit your plot better.

When you budget, think about the whole frontage rather than the paved area alone. Steps to the door, a path to the side gate, planting beds and lighting all affect how the finished drive looks and works. Pricing them together at the visit is usually simpler than adding them once the blocks are down, and it lets edging and levels be set out once.